By Haley Jena for The Writer's Brew: An Unfiltered Guide to the Best Writing Spaces
Edited by Rebecca Sowell
Introduction
It’s just like you imagined it. The sun gently hugs your back as you sit on the worn concrete bank. Two women sit next to you (one in a beret, nonetheless), tossing French quips back and forth; a conversation you can’t understand due to the ever-stubborn language barrier, but you easily pick up the universally-known warm and friendly tone exchanged between friends. Lovers are scattered in pairs here and there, holding hands or crying or kissing or perhaps all three. Across from you, a man with grey scruff adorning his face reads his book and insouciantly sips an aperol spritz. To your left dances a street performer; to your right stands a quaint used book stand. And as wonderfully cliche as it is, French music plays softly in the background from a brass trio positioned just down the boardwalk. You’ve got a pen and a crumpled envelope in your hand, and you’re sitting along the River Seine in Paris. You’re here, and you’re inspired to write in the most quintessentially perfect place the universe has ever presented to you.
Can you smell the croissants and hear the trumpets (and all the other tastefully pleasant French traditions) already? While the above paragraph gives you a look into a fraction of my own personal experience writing along the Seine one warm, spring afternoon last March in Paris, one could spend a lifetime of afternoons perched along this romantic body of water, feeling fearless of writer’s block. This overview gives key highlights for any author—from novice to bestseller—navigating the iconic 482 mile long river in the capital metropolis of France.
The History
The Seine, named after the Latin “Sequana” who was the Gallo-Roman goddess of the river, has been the famous site for several cultural events throughout time. In 1431 after Joan of Arc was burned at the stake, her ashes were tossed into the Seine. In the 1900 Summer Olympics in Paris, the river was host to world’s best swimmers, rowers and water polo athletes. Additionally, the Georges Seurat’s beautifully famous “Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte” (1884–1886) painting is set on Ile de la Grande Jatte, an island in—you guessed it—the Seine.
With so much deep cultural history combined with its naturally seductive appeal, it’s no wonder the Seine is a host to such a diverse crowd and presents itself as a beyond-excellent place to write. Inspiration crawls out of every crack and accumulates from pulse of water, and has for centuries.
The Riverside
The Seine flows through 10 of the total 20 arrondissements (neighborhoods) in Paris, giving you a heaping handful of locations for key water-side writing.
Part of the River Seine is in the backyard of the legendary Museé d’Orsay. If you’re only in the city for a short time like I was (I had a mere but blissful 48 hours in Paris), I recommend aweing at the museum’s treasures and, afterwards, picking a bench along the water in Les Berges des Seines, just a short walk down from the museum. Les Berges des Seines takes up approximately 1.5 miles of the Seine’s riverbank as a free, fun-filled area for kids and adults alike. I witnessed a skateboard competition when I was at Les Berges and loved the animated environment it provided for writing, but there’s everything from outdoor ping-pong and chess to yoga. You can get the creative juices flowing by watching or participating—either way, the air will buzz with life which is sure to translate into your words on paper.
Want something quieter? Venture further down near the Pont de la Concorde for a serene spot to scrawl out your thoughts and stories.
The Bridges
Want to write in a spot worthy of symbolism in your writing? Find a perch on any of the 32 bridges on the river. The cri de coeur of the Seine is the Pont Neuf, the oldest and perhaps the most romantic bridge on the river (hello, best-selling romance novel!). This iconic bridge has been immortalized through works of art spanning throughout lifetimes, from poems to films (check out the 1991 movie of two lovers on this very bridge, Les Amants du Pont-Neuf). The bridges offer spectacular views and make you stop and think oh my god, I’m actually writing in Paris—the prose is sure to pour out of you. However, Paris is Paris after all—perhaps the best bridge to write at is the one you stumble upon by surprise.
The Islands
Want to feel truly enraptured by the Seine’s allure? Look no further than the islands within the Seine. The river is host to 117 culturally-rich islands which form an extensively enticing archipelago, each isle offering its own unique and storied vibe.
“The islands are like a pearl necklace of nature decorating the river,” said architect Milena Charbit in an interview with The New York Times. Charbit crafted the Parisian exhibition “Islands of the Seine,” which features the stories 32 especially-essential islands in the Seine. “Each pearl has its own life, its own identity.”
The two most prominent “pearls” are the Île de la Cité and the smaller Île Saint-Louis. Both are located in the center of the city where Paris was born, and both are bustling with activity—not necessarily a deserted-island feel, but exceptional for thought provocation or character inspiration. If you’re missing home in the United States, unearth a spot to compose on the Île aux Cygnes, home of the mini-Statue of Liberty and nature trails. If you’re looking for a lesser-known green space to write, Île Saint-Germain is home to a tranquil park. If you’re feeling outgoing, employ your best French speaking skills and ask local experts for their recommendations.
The Cafés, The Bistros, and The Shops
Slightly off the Seine, there are incredible cafés, bistros, and shops scattered throughout the city—fantastic for finding picnic supplies to complement your writing, discovering new ideas during a writing break, or more. Visit the legendary Shakespeare & Company to feel like your favorite authors—the bookstore and café was modeled after the original Shakespeare & Company where literary legends like Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Stein used to rendezvous. Cross the Seine on the Pont Notre-Dame to take a break (and maybe even see someone famous) at one of the oldest coffee shops in Paris, Café de Flore. There’s an abundant amount of options nestled near the river, so another suitable option is to saunter into whatever restaurant or shop calls to you.
Conclusion
When I left the Museé d’Orsay on a Sunday afternoon last spring, I didn’t plan on writing, nor did I hunt out my spot on the Seine near Les Berges. I had five hours to kill before my train home, and I was all alone in Paris. With minimal sleep but maximum willpower, I’d managed to experience all my Parisian must-sees. I stepped out of the museum and aimlessly wandered down to the Seine, walking for a mile or two agenda-free. Sitting down on an old wooden bench, I absorbed my surroundings and the urge to write overwhelmed me; the hopeless romantic inside of me screamed to document my emotions and my unreal atmosphere. I rustled through my purse and miraculously found an old ink pen and a crumpled envelope. Using the materials, I began writing in the most perfect place I ever have.
Whether you want to uncover a writing escape in the quiet, grassy riverside; yearn to find inspiration in a bustling café overlooking the river; or prefer to surround yourself with the written word in the company of strangers at any spot on this inspiring body of water, I cannot recommend highly enough writing on the Seine. C’est si bon.
Comments